Montélimar Nougat
Makes:
one 8 × 11-inch
(20 × 28 cm)
nougat
(3 -4 dozen pieces)
Prep Time:
20 minutes,
plus cooling
Cook Time:
10 minutes
Category:
Recipe from Anna Olson’s Baking Wisdom
© 2023 Olson Food Concepts Inc. Photography by Janis Nicolay. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. All rights reserved.
Nougat is a confection of nuts (and sometimes fruits) in a sugar paste, and it has been made in the town of Montélimar in the east of France since the 19th century. Shops in this region and nearby Provence specialize in only this style of nougat, which is traditionally made with almonds and flavoured with honey. Honey is still a key flavour ingredient, but the fruits and nuts can vary. The set meringue is light with a gentle “chew” to it, but nothing that will stick in your teeth.
Notes: The nougat will keep at room temperature for up to 3 weeks.
Ingredients
- 1 cup (160 g) unsalted whole almonds, toasted
- 1 cup (135 g) whole hazelnuts, toasted and peeled
- 1 cup (125 g) unsalted shelled whole pistachios
- 1 cup (130 g) dried apricots, each one cut into 4 strips
- ½ cup (70 g) dried cherries or cranberries
- ½ cup (75 g) dried blueberries
- ¼ cup (50 g) cocoa butter or virgin coconut oil, melted
- 2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar, divided
- 2 tsp meringue powder
- 2 large egg whites
- 6 Tbsp (90 mL) water
- ½ cup (120 g) glucose syrup
- ¾ cup (225 g) honey
- 2 (8 × 11-inch/20 × 28 cm) sheets edible rice paper
Step by Step Instructions
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 250°F (120°C). Toss the almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios, apricot slices, cherries (or cranberries) and blueberries together in a pan or pie plate and keep warm in the oven. Place the melted cocoa butter (or coconut oil) in a separate dish and keep warm in the oven.
The cocoa butter or coconut oil, glucose syrup and edible rice paper can be purchased at a specialty baking supply store or online.
Warming the fruits and nuts makes them easier to fold into the nougat and then spread into the pan. Adding room-temperature items to the nougat would immediately start to set it.
Step 2
Prepare the meringue ingredients. Stir 2 Tbsp (25 g) sugar together with the meringue powder. Add this mixture and the egg whites to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment or a large heatproof bowl if using electric beaters.
Step 3
Combine the sugar and glucose. Measure the water, remaining 1¾ cups + 2 Tbsp (375 g) sugar and the glucose into a medium saucepan and set aside.
Step 4
Cook the honey. Measure the honey into a second medium saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, uncovered and without stirring, until it reaches 226°F (108°C). At this point, start whipping the egg whites on high speed.
Orange blossom or chestnut honey is commonly used to make nougat in Provence. Both have a beautiful aroma when heated. Regular wildflower honey is just as delicious.
Cooking the sugar and honey separately makes for a fluffy yet sliceable nougat that holds its shape. The sugar cooks to the hard crack stage, ensuring the candy will set fully. The honey cooks to the thread stage, ensuring the nougat will be pliable and easy to eat.
Step 5
Add the honey to the meringue but keep cooking the sugar. Continue cooking the honey to 248°F (120°C)—this will take only a minute. Immediately remove the honey from the heat and carefully pour it into the egg whites while they whip. Keep the whites whipping while you bring the pot with the sugar to a full boil over high heat, uncovered and without stirring. Cook the sugar until it reaches 311°F (155°C). Immediately yet carefully pour the sugar down the side of the bowl into the whipping meringue and continue to whip for about 3 minutes, just to cool it down a little.
Step 6
Pour the warm melted cocoa butter (or coconut oil) into the whipping nougat. The mixture may appear to separate a little at first, but keep whipping and the cocoa butter will blend in.
Step 7
Stir in the nuts and fruits by hand, coating them fully. Place a sheet of the rice paper onto a baking tray. Spoon the nougat on top of the rice paper and spread to level it as much as possible, keeping within the boundaries of the paper as best as you can. Place the second rice paper sheet on top of the nougat and press gently so it adheres.
Step 8
Let the nougat cool for at least 2 hours before cutting. Use a sharp chef’s knife to slice the nougat into pieces. Place the nougat between layers of parchment paper in an airtight container or wrap the nougat pieces individually to store.
